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The rosé market: what the numbers don't tell you

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Meghan Read for The Drinks Business

For lovers of intrigue, unexpected plot twists, underdogs and unabashed sizzling luxury, forget Hollywood blockbusters. Just check out the rosé market.

After more than a decade of almost unimaginable growth, rosé's upward trajectory has levelled off. The 16 largest French rosé brands in the US shipped a combined 2.36 million cases in 2023, down 3.3% collectively. But that cohort is still shipping 400,000 more cases than they did pre-pandemic. Rosé, compared to wine broadly, is still outperforming its peers. Total wine slumped 4% year-on-year in 2023. Premium rosé showed strong appeal in key markets including the US, the UK, and Australia.

So is the rosé market heading for a correction, or is it maturing? The answer is probably both, and the distinction matters enormously for how brands respond.

Why celebrity still works

The use of celebrity endorsements has resulted in significant success for wine and rosé. Celebrity-backed brands benefit from a built-in fanbase and strong social currency. As rosé overall delivers mixed sales results, brands with celebrity association continue to perform.

Snoop Dogg's 19 Crimes Cali Rosé, supported with exclusive AR opportunities in which Snoop responded to fans' questions with personalised advice, has been a top seller since debuting in 2021. Kylie Minogue's Rosé launch in 2020 resulted in someone in the world drinking a glass of her rosé every 1.5 seconds between 2021 and 2022, when rosé sales overall were slumping.

The reason is straightforward: celebrity brands don't rely on a category tailwind. They generate their own momentum through fanbases, social media, and the constant ambient promotion that comes with genuine star power. The brand story is already written. The audience already exists.

The branding opportunity in a maturing market

Elaborately branded rosés have become an almost fail-safe way of driving immediate growth in a stagnant market. The use of proprietary glass is central to this, with brands such as Paddington Lane and Gérard Bertrand's Côtes des Roses using their bottle form to demonstrate distinctiveness and brand possibility, as well as highlighting the inherent beauty of the wine's colour.

The best example is Miraval: a visual fusion of American celebrity and French savoir-faire. Its Muse de Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé has strong shelf appeal through its considered design, whilst also delivering on the liquid — an assemblage that includes Rolle (Vermentino) from Italy alongside the more standard Provençal grapes Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah.

Branding and quality working in concert is the formula that endures. When one outpaces the other, the result is typically short-lived.

The luxury tier is real and growing

There are many successful super-luxury rosés that rely less on branding and more on historical reputation. Domaine Prieuré Roch Bourgogne Rosé, made from the Vosne-Romanée vineyards, is a case in point: the visual identity will always play second fiddle to the provenance of the wine. At that level, the reputation is the brand.

Elsewhere in the luxury tier, on-trade spending on rosé has shifted significantly. A glass of rosé at $16 was rare four years ago. Now multiple rosés command $20 or more on restaurant lists. Bottles above $50 are no longer exceptional. The ceiling has moved upward and shows no sign of dropping back.

The case for thinking beyond season and stereotype

Rosé's easy-drinking and easy-on-the-eye characteristics make it appealing to consumers across all geographical boundaries. When branding and quality come together, rosé can appeal to serious oenophiles and fun-loving newcomers alike.

The market is also expanding its form. Sparkling rosé is performing strongly. Non-alcoholic rosé is growing. Moderation trends, lower-ABV preferences, and daytime drinking occasions are all creating new entry points for the category.

Rosé is the rare wine that can cross geographical, paradigmatic, income, and occasion lines. It may no longer be on a rocket ship to the moon. But produced and sold the right way, with a clear brand position, genuine quality, and a story worth telling, it remains one of the most commercially interesting categories in wine.

Meghan Read, Denomination's Managing Director, spoke about the rosé market and branding strategy in The Drinks Business, 2024.

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